The 2014 vintage of the white blend known as Fairhead from Paarl property Joostenberg is way out. A blend of 50% Chenin Blanc, 25% Roussanne and 25% Viognier, it underwent spontaneous fermentation and maturation for 15 months in old oak and is more overtly oxidative than usual.
The nose shows a top note of dried flowers before white and yellow peach plus a touch of spice. It’s rich and broad on the palate with soft acidity (4.3 g/l) and a gently savoury finish. It has certain rusticity about it but there’s plenty going on – I like it but it is nerdy and I do wonder about its general commercial appeal. Price: R115 a bottle.